[cndlou3]

The reason I am putting this on the General Discussion page is because I do not feel the contractor page get's seen as much.
I am looking for recommendations for getting the windows replaced in our house. Would love to hear your experiences and if you do not mind sharing a cost of the windows too. Did you put in tinted windows? I am not sure if there are "Hurricane" windows or not. So I can have a general idea on cost. We have 3 bedrooms, the window above sink and the small bathroom window. I don't think we will replace LR window because we have plans in the future for expansion. Yes, I know that ARC has to approve everything but what we would like to do I have seen before has been approved. I know that it doesn't guarantee we will be approved. Thank you in advance for your help.

[villagetinker]

How old is the house? If the reason for replacement is the windows are defective they typically have a 10 year warranty. What type of house poured concrete, block, stick, modular, etc., makes a big difference in the cost. If the house is relatively new I would go with original installer, unless you has a quality problem. If this is out of pocket, I see several window replacement firms advertised on television that claim long warranties. Tried to do this in a prior house, and the window companies were installing windows to the FINISHED window opening, NOT the rough opening. This results in smaller windows and the need for mullions outside to cover the resulting gaps. Be sure to see exactly what the companies are offering and ask for local installations that you can see.

[cndlou3]

It was built 2002

[cndlou3]

I didn't know if there was an actual contractor that did only windows, I am not so sure about the tv ad installers

[Toymeister]

I did it myself, it was quite simple. Home Depot windows with low e glass. Even the most affordable windows are better than the builder grade windows that are installed in new TV homes.

Windows vary in price too much to speculate, safe to say 350.00 buys a lot of window.

No, it absolutely does not matter if you have a frame, stucco or pored concrete wall home in terms of the window. It's the same window. Cost of installing does vary but not by a wide margin. Think about it, windows are installed with four screws and chalk. Wood screws or cement screws...

[RVJim]

Originally Posted by Toymeister

I did it myself, it was quite simple. Home Depot windows with low e glass. Even the most affordable windows are better than the builder grade windows that are installed in new TV homes.

Windows vary in price too much to speculate, safe to say 350.00 buys a lot of window.

No, it absolutely does not matter if you have a frame, stucco or pored concrete wall home in terms of the window. It's the same window. Cost of installing does vary but not by a wide margin. Think about it, windows are installed with four screws and chalk. Wood screws or cement screws...

Four screws and caulk? Maybe if you are talking about nail fin vinyl junk windows from Home Depot although I would use more than 4 screws! It very much does matter what the home construction is, how square the opening is and the type of window frame. I spent over $60,000 on new Anderson wood windows at my former home before moving here. $350 does not buy much of a window.

[MandoMan]

Originally Posted by Toymeister

I did it myself, it was quite simple. Home Depot windows with low e glass. Even the most affordable windows are better than the builder grade windows that are installed in new TV homes.

Windows vary in price too much to speculate, safe to say 350.00 buys a lot of window.

No, it absolutely does not matter if you have a frame, stucco or pored concrete wall home in terms of the window. It's the same window. Cost of installing does vary but not by a wide margin. Think about it, windows are installed with four screws and chalk. Wood screws or cement screws...

That seems a bit over-simplified. After the ARC permit process, remove outdoor trim and part of siding as necessary, having the right tools to do that. (The trim may not come off cleanly and could be damaged or ruined. Matching new trim to the trim around other openings may be difficult.) Remove the indoor trim around the window. Pull the nails on the window frame fins and the old insulation and pull out window from the outside. Replace window flashing so water won’t leak in if it happens to rain in Florida. Install new window following directions. (Some may have four screws, but there are alternatives, none requiring concrete screws, as there are wood frames inside the concrete block openings.) Spray in foam insulation or some other insulation or sealant. Replace siding and exterior trim, including caulking as necessary. Replace interior trim. (In my house the sides and top are drywall, plaster, and paint, while the sill is marble, so it’s a complicated job.)

I installed storm shutters on my house this summer, myself, and it was a lot of work getting access to the window headers behind flimsy vinyl trim for driving all those big 6” structural screws. I wouldn’t try replacing a window myself here, though I’ve done it elsewhere a couple times. It’s really a professional job. Even then, going with whoever is cheapest would be a big mistake. I’d expect the contract to specify all the steps, and I’d want to keep an eye on the installers. Five years ago a friend of mine was having eight big casement windows replaced. I grilled her handyman contractor over the steps he would use and was satisfied. But I showed up the day after the new windows went in and discovered that he had used no flashing at all but simply squirted in a bead of clear silicon caulk all around. (And remember that paint won’t stick to silicon.) My friend made him pull out all the windows and do it right or no payment. The contractor said “I’ve installed windows this way for forty years, and no one has ever complained before.”

[cndlou3]

Originally Posted by Toymeister

I did it myself, it was quite simple. Home Depot windows with low e glass. Even the most affordable windows are better than the builder grade windows that are installed in new TV homes.

Windows vary in price too much to speculate, safe to say 350.00 buys a lot of window.

No, it absolutely does not matter if you have a frame, stucco or pored concrete wall home in terms of the window. It's the same window. Cost of installing does vary but not by a wide margin. Think about it, windows are installed with four screws and chalk. Wood screws or cement screws...

Thank you, Were your replacement windows tinted? Didn't know if ARC would allow a homeowner to do installation yourself. This is still something that has to be approved correct?

[Joyce952]

Originally Posted by cndlou3

The reason I am putting this on the General Discussion page is because I do not feel the contractor page get's seen as much.
I am looking for recommendations for getting the windows replaced in our house. Would love to hear your experiences and if you do not mind sharing a cost of the windows too. Did you put in tinted windows? I am not sure if there are "Hurricane" windows or not. So I can have a general idea on cost. We have 3 bedrooms, the window above sink and the small bathroom window. I don't think we will replace LR window because we have plans in the future for expansion. Yes, I know that ARC has to approve everything but what we would like to do I have seen before has been approved. I know that it doesn't guarantee we will be approved. Thank you in advance for your help.

We just replaced all of our windows thru Lowes and it all went well

[kkingston57]

Look into getting impact resistant windows, especially if you have any issues with noise(too close to a road). 1

10 years ago they were 30% higher than standard windows. You might be elgible for a reduction in your insurance prices(probably not much here but in South Florida it was worthwhile)

Lastly, our house does have a large window which gets hit by the sun most of the day. Had very noticeable heat near window. Tinted the window and it had negligible affect and wished we replaced that window with double pained glass.

[cndlou3]

Originally Posted by kkingston57

Look into getting impact resistant windows, especially if you have any issues with noise(too close to a road). 1

10 years ago they were 30% higher than standard windows. You might be elgible for a reduction in your insurance prices(probably not much here but in South Florida it was worthwhile)

Lastly, our house does have a large window which gets hit by the sun most of the day. Had very noticeable heat near window. Tinted the window and it had negligible affect and wished we replaced that window with double pained glass.

Yes, will definitely install double paned glass. do not want the heat coming through

[drducat]

Originally Posted by MandoMan

That seems a bit over-simplified. After the ARC permit process, remove outdoor trim and part of siding as necessary, having the right tools to do that. (The trim may not come off cleanly and could be damaged or ruined. Matching new trim to the trim around other openings may be difficult.) Remove the indoor trim around the window. Pull the nails on the window frame fins and the old insulation and pull out window from the outside. Replace window flashing so water won’t leak in if it happens to rain in Florida. Install new window following directions. (Some may have four screws, but there are alternatives, none requiring concrete screws, as there are wood frames inside the concrete block openings.) Spray in foam insulation or some other insulation or sealant. Replace siding and exterior trim, including caulking as necessary. Replace interior trim. (In my house the sides and top are drywall, plaster, and paint, while the sill is marble, so it’s a complicated job.)

I installed storm shutters on my house this summer, myself, and it was a lot of work getting access to the window headers behind flimsy vinyl trim for driving all those big 6” structural screws. I wouldn’t try replacing a window myself here, though I’ve done it elsewhere a couple times. It’s really a professional job. Even then, going with whoever is cheapest would be a big mistake. I’d expect the contract to specify all the steps, and I’d want to keep an eye on the installers. Five years ago a friend of mine was having eight big casement windows replaced. I grilled her handyman contractor over the steps he would use and was satisfied. But I showed up the day after the new windows went in and discovered that he had used no flashing at all but simply squirted in a bead of clear silicon caulk all around. (And remember that paint won’t stick to silicon.) My friend made him pull out all the windows and do it right or no payment. The contractor said “I’ve installed windows this way for forty years, and no one has ever complained before.”

Replacement widows that fit in the old frame are the way to go instead of going all the way down to a new construction type install with the flanges.....do that only if the wood around is rotting....simple process. Take about 20 to 30 minutes a window...complete.