[John_W]

Originally Posted by Mustagotlost

Ok so this is information over load. My issue is the garage gets very warm. Would it be best to put a screen garage door and leave my ridge vents alone?

You're not going to get the garage temp cooler than the outside air, but it will be about the same temp with a screen and since it's in the shade, it will fill a lot better. If you really want to help it along, if you have installed attic steps, pull the door down about 6" and prop a small box to hold it open. You'll feel a good breeze. The negative is if there is a fire in the garage, it's going to spread to the main house very quickly. Also on a masonry home, the real worry for termites is the wooden trusses in you attic, by making it cooler terminates might enter. Termites won't live in temps above 120.

I have just a horizontal screen because it's half the price, and when I go in and out, I just slide one 3' section and close it back. I got the screen the first month I was in the home just after hearing a neighbor found a rattlesnake in his garage, but other benefits are well worth it, especially if your washer & dryer are in the garage like ours. It also makes the garage more attractive when the door is open, you only see a white screen, and it's a small bit of protection, but no one should accidently walk through a locked screen.

[MandoMan]

Originally Posted by Mustagotlost

Ok so this is information over load. My issue is the garage gets very warm. Would it be best to put a screen garage door and leave my ridge vents alone?

Yes.

[ProfessorDave]

Originally Posted by RAAndre

Yes, I am getting a new roof. It's original from 2004.

My insurance company has suggested that I replace my large power vent with two hip roof side ridge vents. He said it would be more aesthetic, lower my electric bill and actually function better. I have found articles on the web that seem to support this. Has anyone done this?

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
e. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
f. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
g. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
h. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
i. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
j. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.
Hope this helps. If you want to deal director with a qualified crew – I might be able to help. My deal with them: if they do a roof for a “friend” they give me a $5.00 Starbucks gift certificate. (They wanted to give me more – I will not take it! We compromised on Starbucks.)

[BostonRich]

Thanks for all that info but you didn't mention Hip Roof Ridge Vents (see post #44). Are you familiar with them?

[islandtiempo]

Originally Posted by Toymeister

The energy monitor tells me what is running for how long for which days and how much it costs.

You may think the fan comes on and stays on for hours, it isn't always so. It can come on, cool the attic shut off only to come on again . A rain storm almost immediately shuts off the fan as the roof cools.

Now certainly we can debate run time for a fan set to 130 degrees vice 125. But that is not the point.

If you like discover what is on in your home, what is driving the bill. Sense energy monitor, Sense: Track energy use in real time to make your home more energy efficient., Amazon $299.

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. This energy device is promising.

[Toymeister]

Originally Posted by islandtiempo

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. This energy device is promising.

Yes, with data for your home you can quickly dispell the multiple myths presented here. While everyone has an opinion, the ability to Google some old data, and worse many have many believe in their superior ability to process information over anyone else, virtually no one has actual data.

If you get one of these monitors you will be surprised how many myths you have believed or how improvements in building science have changed homes performance over other homes that you have owned. One thing is certain, with this knowledge you can make decisions which will certainly result in savings paying for the unit. My savings exceeded 20%.

[BostonRich]

Originally Posted by Toymeister

Yes, with data for your home you can quickly dispell the multiple myths presented here . . . One thing is certain, with this knowledge you can make decisions which will certainly result in savings paying for the unit. My savings exceeded 20%.

That sounds like a very interesting device and it provides some great information. But I am curious as to how it let you save over 20%. Is that over 20% of your electric bill?

You still have to run your devices. Knowing what the AC and dishwasher and dryer cost to run is great but you still need to run them, right?

Back north some times it was cheaper to run some things at night but I don't believe there is a differential rate structure here in Florida.

Very curious to hear your reply.

[Bbgranny1]

One advantage of hip roof - lower insurance charges.

[CFP Advisor]

RAAndre has a Great Post reminding us of the State of Georgia banning electric Solar Fans. They did their research and helped me decide NOT to install any fans on my new roof.
Owens Corning Platinum Contractors who install their shingles MUST USE RIDGE VENTS or Owens Corning will NOT issue their best warranty to the roof.
Below is a small part of research by Owens Corning that ANY ROOF VENTS along with Ridge Vents could be counter productive
and cause "Ventalation Short Circuit".

"Part of a Owens Corning article about ventalation"
Another common misconception is "more is better". Many people think that they can improve
ventilation of their attic by installing vents all throughout the roof surface. What they don’t know is this
causes a Ventilation Short Circuit. For instance, let’s say that Fred has a full soffit and ridge vent
system installed. But thinking that more is better, Fred decides to install a couple of vents about
halfway up the slope. Instead of improving his ventilation, he has now hampered it because air is now
exiting out the vents in the middle of the roof, before it reaches the ridge leaving the attic partially
unvented. Depending on wind pressure, air will also be taken in at the intermediate vents reducing
the intake at the eaves where it should be.

My new roof went on in May 2019 and I had more Ridge Vents installed than the original roof and my attic cooled down right away as I kept checking temperature into the summer months. I have NO fans installed.