[drrichard]

SPS Roofing (Scott Skipper - 352/347-8530), best price (of 5 estimates) and quick, capable, honest job. We couldn't be more pleased!

[ProfessorDave]

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

[will1546]

McGinnis Roof 352-245-5651

[Bonnevie]

Originally Posted by ProfessorDave

Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Current Insurance… some contractors pay the first month, and keep using a defunct insurance policy as evidence. Not real common – but when it happens – can be a BIG RISK. (example I know about: Lenox Fine China got fine $6 million – years ago in this situation – when somebody fell of their roof – and the contractor used this insurance scam.)
e. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
f. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
g. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
h. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
i. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
j. Clean Up… including the gutters. Ideally, have them use a magnet sweeper for the lawn and shrubs to make sure none dropped.
k. Debris Capture… ideally directly from the roof into the container. When they drop and gather in wheel barrels, often nails get lose and can cause safety issues later.
l. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
m. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend a few solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.

Thank you for this. Many of my neighbors are getting "free" roofs and the company that initiated it agrees to accept whatever the insurance companies pay. I have to think they will do the bare minimum so that profit to them is maximized.

[wsachs]

Go to the sites of the shingle companies (GAF, Certainteed, Owens Corning) and look for their gold star preferred roofers in the area. Those listed on the websites have been in business with the suppliers.

[Tommyc6]

SPS roofing

[ping]

Agree, Batterbee is an excellent company! Family owned, local, stands behind their work and product! Did a great job....they work the whole time at your house. A company my neighbor had used to replace their roof, actually took a siesta at midday. Came off the roof and laid on any shady patch of grass! Prep was excellent....covered plants, protected garage door and driveway. Cleanup was equally excellent! They even offer financing at 0% for 18 months! Highly recommend.

[PennyAnn]

We hired Bowles Roofing from Ocala. We wanted to stay away from all the local scammers. Bowles were very professional and we would hire them again, without hesitation.

[hal195z]

Check with your insurance company before you sign anything from the roofer because if the insurance company does not approve the new shingles, you are responsible for the entire bill. Don't believe the roofer. Also, because of the large amount of roofing claims, insurance costs are going up for everyone.

[SkylightRoofing]

Skylight Roofing Inc
The Villages Top Rated Roofer 2021
Licensed/ No Sub-Contractors
Offices Sumter - Marion - Orlando
(352) 552-4766
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Google Rated

[G.R.I.T.S.]

Originally Posted by cordenny

Looking for a reputable roofer. So many to choose from. Then there are the ones that claim you can get a new roof through your insurance.
Just looking for some advise and recommendations.
Thank you.

Batterbee.

[wdst1]

McHale roofing. Honest, fast, dependable

[mikef65]

Batterbee did a few dozen roofs on the Amelia east side after an Owens Corning shingle recall (around 2012). The spent 1 day per house. All the right equipment and people to do the job, and did great cleaning up also. Still great.

[fastboat]

Originally Posted by Charsaunt

Stay away from APC Roofing. You get a different story every time you talk with them. Try Apex Roofing.

Apex will ask you to sign an agreement which you relinquish all your rights to deal with the insurance company. Acting as your agent, which by signing you gave them the right to, you could be arguing with the insurance company for a very long time and never get the roof they promised.

[J1ceasar]

there are several very reputable roofers in this area -- ask how long they have bee around and their last 3 jobs near you.