[menthol01]

I would appreciate some advice on a reasonable irrigation schedule.
The pre-set schedule was for 1.5 hours for lawn and 20 min for beds 2x/wk. Shrubs getting over watered. Grass is fine. We have a corner lot with a designer home.
My goal ( as I'm sure is the goal for all) is to use the least amount of water and keep the grass reasonably green and alive. I know the system adjusts based on conditions and is not running full right now, but I'm getting conflicting advice on frequency and duration. Lawn service recommending 3x/wk at lesser running times(didn't think we were allowed to increase days)
I'm leaning toward 2x/wk with lawn zones set at 1hour and beds for 10-12 min(when both at 100%).
Thanks!

[retiredguy123]

Mine has been set for 30 minutes lawn and 20 minutes shrubs, 2X per week, for the 100 percent setting. The automatic adjustment is currently at 30 percent, which reduces the actual watering times to about 9 minutes lawn and 6 minutes shrubs. No problems after one year.

[HiHoSteveO]

Small designer lot
2X per week

When at 100%
Shrubs =11 Minutes
Front lawn= 16 minutes
Sides = 13 minutes

I am careful not to over water and turn the system off when rainy. Sometimes needs more when dry.

Thick and green all year with the help of Lesco. Shrubs growing like crazy.

[NoMoSno]

There is no set time that works for all systems or every zone.
Each rotor head has different GPM nozzles, that can be changed.
The best way to find your time setting is to place many shallow cans (Tuna) around the zone area.
Check the water level in the can, after the zone has run.
You should have 1/2"-3/4" per watering. (two days in the summer, one day in the winter)
Adjust the time or change the nozzles to meet the 1/2-3/4" amount.
Sprinkler School - Irrigation and Sprinkler Tutorials & Help

[redwitch]

I'm assuming you have the new, low flow rotary heads. Sadly, they really do need 90 minutes, especially during the summer. However, your landscape areas are really set too high. They should be no more than 15 minutes during high heat, 10 minutes is fine for winter and spring. Do remember to change them to run twice a week starting in April (or mid-March if we stay over 83).

The other alternative is to change the low-flow to regular rotary heads. Then, you can go much lower on times but you'll still be using about the same amount of water.

[TomSpasm]

Here is the link to information on the dates and times that Villagers are allowed to water their lawns:

http://http://www.thevillageswaterwisdom.com/cdd-1-10-irrigation-schedule/

I cannot believe your lawn service advised you to water 3 days a week unless your lawn is new, since that is not allowed anywhere in the Villages.

The tuna can suggestion was good, I cannot believe you need to water for 90 minutes in the same zone.

Also be aware that although we really didn't have any freezes this year, you want to shut off your system if freezing temps are expected.

[menthol01]

Thank you to all that responded. I appreciate the feed back!

[autumnspring]

Originally Posted by menthol01

Thank you to all that responded. I appreciate the feed back!

People do not follow the rules but

You have two days when you can water. If, you look at your parcel of land, you have low spots-streams- on either side to allow water to drain off and into the sewer system.

If, your water day is tues, your neighbors would be weds so that you are both not watering on the same day and creating an overly wet area in those drainage streams. When, you and your neighbor keep that area wet you will get fungus.

The cooperative extension seems to be changing their recommendation from 1/2 now to 3/4 of an inch. I agree with the poster who suggested putting out shallow dishes and see how much water is in fact being delivered to each area of your lawn. Different heads put out different amounts of water. Surely there are parts of your lawn that get less water than other parts.

You can also remove a core sample from your lawn-easy with a post hole digger or a bulb planter. Don't worry, you will be putting it back. What you will see is how deep your grass roots are going. It should be about 8 inches. If it is shallower than that, you are watering too often. Your grass has no need to go deep in search of water-so on a hot day it will quickly wither. Also, most if not all of us have sod. When, you remove that core sample, you will find about 1/2 an inch of rich organic soil that the sod farm grows his grass on and then the poor sandy clay that we were left to try and grow a lawn on. You can actually grow a nice lawn on 1/2 and inch of soil if you are willing to water it every day, sometimes twice a day, fertilize it often etc.
It is a balancing act. The more fertilizer you apply, the more you need to mow, the more water you need to apply AND THE MORE LIKELY YOU ARE TO HAVE FUNGUS AND INSECT PROBLEMS.
If, you are not aware first of all we have a different water supplier in the south section of the villages than in the north and we pay more for water in the south. If, you look at your water bill you will find as you use more the price per gallon goes up. Also, if you have a large lawn, you are on the same rate schedule as people with a small lawn; such as a villa. Smart, according to me is to improve your soil with organic matter so that it holds more water and fertilizer-thus, you can have a better lawn at less cost and less environmental damage.

[graciegirl]

You initially should water more when you are establishing a new lawn and newly planted shrubs. We have had a long dry spell. Water the new stuff more until it is established.

[valuemkt]

Given all that .. what is a reasonable expectation for a water bill if you;re located north of 466A and south of 466 ??