Help with zoysia grass

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Old 04-12-2014, 03:34 AM
bobofmanawa bobofmanawa is offline
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Default Help with zoysia grass

I need some advice on my Zoysia grass, like what is wrong. My front looks good however the back is awful. I had someone taking care of my lawn last year and they applied 22 applications, you can't say they didn't try but the results were again AWFUL. I will pay someone for their time. Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2014, 05:09 AM
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Can you describe awful? ...is it dense, compact, barely covering the soil?
pale? purplish? brown?

For the best solutions, take photos and samples of grass and soil to plant clinic..
Sumter County Extension Office ? Solutions for Your Life - UF Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences
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Old 04-12-2014, 05:39 AM
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"22 applications"
Did they keep applying what wasn't working, that sound excessive not to mention expensive!
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:19 AM
bobofmanawa bobofmanawa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittygilchrist View Post
Can you describe awful? ...is it dense, compact, barely covering the soil?
pale? purplish? brown?

For the best solutions, take photos and samples of grass and soil to plant clinic..
Sumter County Extension Office ? Solutions for Your Life - UF Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences
pale, yellowish, sparse, sick looking.
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:09 AM
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I can't give you advice, as I'm not an expert, but I can again direct you to the plant clinics by the extension office, where you need photos and grass samples and can also get a cheap Ph test for soil. Also bring the history of what has been put on the lawn.

I CAN tell you what I'm doing for my poor lawn. I have empire zoysia on top of sandy clay which is alkaline and poorly drained. I am adding organic material on top of the grass (ex. peat, clippings, black kow) , aerating with an implement or cleats, as well as following advice to add chelated iron as in the article below, iron deficiency is there identified as likely to cause yellowing. I'm watching the wetter areas to see if action is needed to sculp the surface or reduce water. Let's hope we are successful.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh011
quote:
Since zoysiagrass is very slow to green-up in the spring, avoid applying fertilizer until after the turf has become fully green to avoid premature green-up, which is prone to frost injury. This is especially important in North Florida, where late spring frosts may damage the grass. Delaying spring fertilization until the turf is actively growing and can use the fertilizer also reduces the potential for nitrogen leaching from fertilizer. Likewise, don't fertilize too late in the year, as this can slow regrowth the following spring. An application of iron can enhance spring green-up. Applying nitrogen on zoysiagrass in early spring and late fall significantly increases the risk of large (brown) patch disease.

On high-pH (> 7.0) soils or where high-pH water is applied, yellow leaf blades may be an indication of iron or manganese deficiency. Application of soluble or chelated sources of these micronutrients can provide a green-up due to elevated pH.

For iron deficiency, spray ferrous sulfate (2 ounces in 3–5 gallons of water per 1000 square feet) or a chelated iron source (refer to the label for rates) to temporarily enhance color. Iron applications every 6 weeks help maintain green color and, unlike nitrogen, do not promote excessive top growth.

Note that iron is not a substitute for nitrogen, which provides the building blocks for turfgrass growth and is required for turf health. While both iron and nitrogen deficiencies result in yellowing of turfgrass, they are distinctly different deficiencies in plants. Applying iron does not cure yellowing due to nitrogen deficiency, and iron fertilizer is not a substitute for nitrogen fertilizer. Foliar iron fertilizers, such as iron sulfate or chelated iron solutions, help cure iron deficiencies, and nitrogen fertilizers applied according to BMPs cure nitrogen deficiencies.
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Old 04-12-2014, 01:09 PM
bobofmanawa bobofmanawa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kittygilchrist View Post
I can't give you advice, as I'm not an expert, but I can again direct you to the plant clinics by the extension office, where you need photos and grass samples and can also get a cheap Ph test for soil. Also bring the history of what has been put on the lawn.

I CAN tell you what I'm doing for my poor lawn. I have empire zoysia on top of sandy clay which is alkaline and poorly drained. I am adding organic material on top of the grass (ex. peat, clippings, black kow) , aerating with an implement or cleats, as well as following advice to add chelated iron as in the article below, iron deficiency is there identified as likely to cause yellowing. I'm watching the wetter areas to see if action is needed to sculp the surface or reduce water. Let's hope we are successful.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/lh011
quote:
Since zoysiagrass is very slow to green-up in the spring, avoid applying fertilizer until after the turf has become fully green to avoid premature green-up, which is prone to frost injury. This is especially important in North Florida, where late spring frosts may damage the grass. Delaying spring fertilization until the turf is actively growing and can use the fertilizer also reduces the potential for nitrogen leaching from fertilizer. Likewise, don't fertilize too late in the year, as this can slow regrowth the following spring. An application of iron can enhance spring green-up. Applying nitrogen on zoysiagrass in early spring and late fall significantly increases the risk of large (brown) patch disease.

On high-pH (> 7.0) soils or where high-pH water is applied, yellow leaf blades may be an indication of iron or manganese deficiency. Application of soluble or chelated sources of these micronutrients can provide a green-up due to elevated pH.

For iron deficiency, spray ferrous sulfate (2 ounces in 3–5 gallons of water per 1000 square feet) or a chelated iron source (refer to the label for rates) to temporarily enhance color. Iron applications every 6 weeks help maintain green color and, unlike nitrogen, do not promote excessive top growth.

Note that iron is not a substitute for nitrogen, which provides the building blocks for turfgrass growth and is required for turf health. While both iron and nitrogen deficiencies result in yellowing of turfgrass, they are distinctly different deficiencies in plants. Applying iron does not cure yellowing due to nitrogen deficiency, and iron fertilizer is not a substitute for nitrogen fertilizer. Foliar iron fertilizers, such as iron sulfate or chelated iron solutions, help cure iron deficiencies, and nitrogen fertilizers applied according to BMPs cure nitrogen deficiencies.
Thanks again Kitty, appreciated the sound advice.
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:33 PM
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My neighbor put it in , it was replaced 3 times in 5 years. Go Florida Friendly.
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Old 04-12-2014, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobofmanawa View Post
I need some advice on my Zoysia grass, like what is wrong. My front looks good however the back is awful. I had someone taking care of my lawn last year and they applied 22 applications, you can't say they didn't try but the results were again AWFUL. I will pay someone for their time. Thanks.
22 applications in one year???!!!
Zounds!
No matter what the applications were, that is definitely overkill
and no wonder your grass in in bad condition.
You're lucky it isn't completely dead!

Kitty has given you good, sound advice, thanks to IFAS.
Take a good sample of what you have and get it checked out
so you don't make another critical mistake.
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Old 04-12-2014, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonanza View Post
22 applications in one year???!!!
Zounds!
No matter what the applications were, that is definitely overkill
and no wonder your grass in in bad condition.
You're lucky it isn't completely dead!

Kitty has given you good, sound advice, thanks to IFAS.
Take a good sample of what you have and get it checked out
so you don't make another critical mistake.
One of the biggest detriments to a good yard is overwatering.

By managing the irrigation you can force the roots to search deeper for moisture. If you have good roots you will have great grass during the summer with very little water.

In most cases you do not have to water in the winter. My irrigation was not on from January 10th till April 1st. I did monitor rainfall but keep in mind the the grass was dormant.

If anyone has dead sports or short grass then you may check to see if it is a spot for standing water.
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