[JohnN]

Help. I need someone who knows a little more about electrical than I do. I know enough to be dangerous.

I have a 5 year old villa, a Leviton GFCI outlet in the garage, the breaker says it's for the garage door and all outside receptacles and that's correct. I came home from a trip and the breaker wouldn't reset, so I figure it's busted and I went to my friendly Ace Hardware. He says he's got just what I need, the only one they sell , a 20 amp Leviton. So I bought it and installed it.

I look at the old one and it has 15 Amp imprinted into the plastic, but a sticker on the bottom that says 20 Amp ?????
Now, my spa that's hooked into one of those outside outlets starts, but then stops. The breaker nor the GCFI shuts off, just the spa jet/heater stop. So it's either the GCFI or the spa control panel ($500 plus install).
I want to check the GFCI since it's a lot less expensive.

So, did I possibly install a wrong GCFI, a 20 Amp where it should be a 15??
Why would the old outler have 2 different Amperages?
Does it even make much difference, does the 20 just give me more capability.

Now to top it off (If you're still reading) , I went to Lowes and their GCFI says 15 Amp on the box, but the actual device has 20 Amp imprinted into the plastic.

This doesn't even make sense to me.
Any advice is heartfelt appreciated.

[villagetinker]

Originally Posted by JohnN

Help. I need someone who knows a little more about electrical than I do. I know enough to be dangerous.

I have a 5 year old villa, a Leviton GFCI outlet in the garage, the breaker says it's for the garage door and all outside receptacles and that's correct. I came home from a trip and the breaker wouldn't reset, so I figure it's busted and I went to my friendly Ace Hardware. He says he's got just what I need, the only one they sell , a 20 amp Leviton. So I bought it and installed it.WRONG! never, never, replace a lower rated breaker with a higher rated breaker. The breaker are rated for the CONNECTED WIRING, 15 amps for #14 wire, and 20 amps for #12 wire. By replacing a 15 amp with 20 amp, you have inadvertently created a potential fire hazard.

I look at the old one and it has 15 Amp imprinted into the plastic, but a sticker on the bottom that says 20 Amp ????? Not sure what you are looking at, the GFCI, or the breaker, no idea why there would be a sticker indicating something different from the imprinted rating, use the imprinter rating.
Now, my spa that's hooked into one of those outside outlets starts, but then stops. The breaker nor the GCFI shuts off, just the spa jet/heater stop. So it's either the GCFI or the spa control panel ($500 plus install). Our SPA has its own internal GFCI, so IMHO, dig out the owners manual and see where it is and how to reset. Hopefully this will fix the problem. NOTE: On a power reset, my spa automatically tests the GFCI, so when you changed out the breaker, the SPA probably thought this was a new install, and went through with the GFCI test.
I want to check the GFCI since it's a lot less expensive. I have seen circuit testers with built in GFCI test button, the one I have does not have this feature, but all of the GFCI receptacles and breakers have self test buttons built in, try these first.

So, did I possibly install a wrong GCFI, a 20 Amp where it should be a 15?? I am confused now, initially you mentioned a BREAKER, if you subed a 20 amp GFCI for a 15 amp GFCI, there should be no problem, the opposite would be a problem.
Why would the old outler have 2 different Amperages?
Does it even make much difference, does the 20 just give me more capability.

Now to top it off (If you're still reading) , I went to Lowes and their GCFI says 15 Amp on the box, but the actual device has 20 Amp imprinted into the plastic. Wrong device in the box??

This doesn't even make sense to me.
Any advice is heartfelt appreciated.

Please feel free to send me a PM, I am a retired professional electrical engineer.
Hope this helps.

[Uberschaf]

It's the breaker size that determines the current. If the breaker is rated 20 amp you're good to go. If it's 15 you're still safe. Receptacles are on 20 amp breakers, lighting is on 15 amp breakers. You may have been hit by lightning.

[leftyf]

I agree with Tinker, never replace a 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker. You could burn your house down. 20 amp breakers require 12 ga wire. 14 ga wire can only use a 15 amp breaker or GFCI.

[Wiotte]

Originally Posted by Uberschaf

It's the breaker size that determines the current. If the breaker is rated 20 amp you're good to go. If it's 15 you're still safe. Receptacles are on 20 amp breakers, lighting is on 15 amp breakers. You may have been hit by lightning.

It's the wire size that determines the safe amount of current (amperage) that can flow through it without overheating. The circuit breaker MUST be matched to the wire gauge size. In a typical residential application a 20A breaker will control a 12awg circuit, a 15A breaker will control a 14awg circuit, assuming the wire (cable) is ran through free air. NEVER change the gauge of wiring within the same circuit AND that includes using a receptacle that is amp rated LESS than the existing wire/breaker.
These are basic principles. If not understood correctly a licensed electrician MUST be employed.