Yamaha golf cart oil change DIY

[2ndchance]

Good morning,
I would like to change the oil myself on a 2009 Yamaha cart and while I was at it replace the spark plug. Has anyone done this and would consider sharing the info on how to do it yourself?
Mike

[Rango]

You need one quart of oil. (10w30 or 10w40) A 17mm box end wrench for drain plug. There is no oil filter. Put wrench on drain plug from underneath the cart. The lift the seat a reach down an pull up on the wrench to loosen. Then remove the drain plug from down below. ( If you have never replaced a spark plug in a mower or car then don't do it. (If you cross thread or break off a spark plug your in deep stuff)

[bagboy]

You can find a "how to" oil change video on youtube.

[2ndchance]

Where exactly is the drain plug? Is it on the bottom of the engine?If not which side? What size socket for the spark plug and what's the gap? What brand is best to use for the spark plug replacement ? Can I use full synthetic oil?

[jchase]

Yamaha DOES NOT recommend synthetic oil since it's a splash system. The also recommend 10/30 oil. Not 10/40. I texted them a couple of years ago about the oil velocity, and they said only 10/30. They should know. The drain plug is on the bottom of the engine on the side, underneath the clutch. Make sure you change the aluminum gasket on the drain bolt.

[biker1]

A Yamaha representative told me that synthetic is fine. I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30 for several years. The owner's manual only specifies 10w-30 and API Service SE, SF, SG (which are obsolete API ratings). Any contemporary 10w-30 oil is fine.

Yamaha DOES NOT recommend synthetic oil since it's a splash system. The also recommend 10/30 oil. Not 10/40. I texted them a couple of years ago about the oil velocity, and they said only 10/30. They should know. The drain plug is on the bottom of the engine on the side, underneath the clutch. Make sure you change the aluminum gasket on the drain bolt.

[Rango]

A Yamaha representative told me that synthetic is fine. I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30 for several years. The owner's manual only specifies 10w-30 and API Service SE, SF, SG (which are obsolete API ratings). Any contemporary 10w-30 oil is fine.

The Villages golf cart shops use 10w-40 according to the maintenance sheet I got from them when I purchased my cart.

[biker1]

That is not what Yamaha recommends but it probably doesn't make much, if any, difference. These engines are pretty much bullet-proof.

The Villages golf cart shops use 10w-40 according to the maintenance sheet I got from them when I purchased my cart.

[poromo]

How/where will you dispose the waste oil?

[NoMoSno]

Run the cart a few minutes to warm up the oil, to drain better.
Yamaha recommends "Yamaha Lube" which is not a "full" synthetic, however C&C also recommended Motorcraft 10/30 Synthetic Blend, or Mobile 1.
Have not replaced the oil plug washer yet. Anybody know what size or where to get them?
Spark plug gap .028-.031
Don't forget the air and fuel filter.
All the spec info is in the manual.

[NoMoSno]

How/where will you dispose the waste oil?
Walmart or any oil change shop will take it.
I take it to my recycle center in Weirsdale.

[jchase]

Again, I noticed when the Villages used 10-40 I questioned it. I emailed Yamaha. They said they recommend 10-30, not 10-40, especially in our temperature. The representative also said since it's a splash system (no oil pump) synthetic oil is to thin. He said use Yamalube 10-30.
They should know (I hope!)

You can get the aluminum gaskets at the Village Golf Cart shops or online. Part number is Yamaha gasket (812-11198-00). Make sure you change them every oil change. The block is aluminum and the bolt is steel. You can strip the block because the gaskets flatten once they are used. I know from experience I stripped a block once, expensive!

[biker1]

Autozone will take used oil. The other auto parts chain stores will also probably take used oil.


How/where will you dispose the waste oil?

[biker1]

The viscosity range of an oil is indicated by a designation such as "10w-30". This indicates the viscosity at a low temperature (the 10) and at a high temperature (the 30). Synthetic 10w-30 will have essentially the same viscosity range as non-synthetic 10w-30. Synthetics also don't shear down like non-synthetics so they maintain their viscosity better over time. The Yamaha representative is, of course, pushing their own oil product. Any contemporary 10w-30 weight oil, whether synthetic or not, will be fine.

Again, I noticed when the Villages used 10-40 I questioned it. I emailed Yamaha. They said they recommend 10-30, not 10-40, especially in our temperature. The representative also said since it's a splash system (no oil pump) synthetic oil is to thin. He said use Yamalube 10-30.
They should know (I hope!)

You can get the aluminum gaskets at the Village Golf Cart shops or online. Part number is Yamaha gasket (812-11198-00). Make sure you change them every oil change. The block is aluminum and the bolt is steel. You can strip the block because the gaskets flatten once they are used. I know from experience I stripped a block once, expensive!

[jpvillager]

Agree with "replace the oil plug washer". I did not on a club car and had a drip.

[ditka41]

You can save some time and effort in locating parts sources by simply going to a Yamaha dealer and purchasing their "tune-up / Oil change" kit. Everything you need is in one box, including air filters, spark plug, "crush" washer for the drain plug, and the oil. Price is aprox. $35.00. Anybody with any mechanical ability at all can do the job in about a half hour. The bonus of this, in addition to getting exactly the correct items, is that you will know it was done. There is no need to work from under the cart and the drain plug is on the driver's side below the clutch. Easy to reach from above with the right tools and using a low sided-pan to catch the quart of used oil. Oil change facilities for automobiles generally will be pleased to accept your used oil.

Unfortunately, having the dealer pick up the cart for service does not guarantee that the job is done. My wife and I have identical 2010 Yamaha carts, except for the color. Three years ago both carts were picked up at the same time and delivered the next day. When I checked the oil in her cart it was obviously NOT changed, and dirty. Went back to the dealer to complain and ask for a refund and was told they "sub" out the work and I'd have to take the matter up with their sub-vendor. After that nonsense, I went to the shop and got no help at all. IMO, the dealer collecting the money should have been the responsible party, but how much time can one waste over a few dollars? I decided to always do that job myself in the future. It is quick and easy, as well as saving money. Needless to say, the next time I buy a new cart it will not be from this dealer who has multiple locations in The Villages.

[NoMoSno]

You can save some time and effort in locating parts sources by simply going to a Yamaha dealer and purchasing their "tune-up / Oil change" kit. Everything you need is in one box, including air filters, spark plug, "crush" washer for the drain plug, and the oil. Price is aprox. $35.00. Anybody with any mechanical ability at all can do the job in about a half hour. The bonus of this, in addition to getting exactly the correct items, is that you will know it was done. There is no need to work from under the cart and the drain plug is on the driver's side below the clutch. Easy to reach from above with the right tools and using a low sided-pan to catch the quart of used oil. Oil change facilities for automobiles generally will be pleased to accept your used oil.

Unfortunately, having the dealer pick up the cart for service does not guarantee that the job is done. My wife and I have identical 2010 Yamaha carts, except for the color. Three years ago both carts were picked up at the same time and delivered the next day. When I checked the oil in her cart it was obviously NOT changed, and dirty. Went back to the dealer to complain and ask for a refund and was told they "sub" out the work and I'd have to take the matter up with their sub-vendor. After that nonsense, I went to the shop and got no help at all. IMO, the dealer collecting the money should have been the responsible party, but how much time can one waste over a few dollars? I decided to always do that job myself in the future. It is quick and easy, as well as saving money. Needless to say, the next time I buy a new cart it will not be from this dealer who has multiple locations in The Villages.
I have purchased the $35 tune up kit that includes filters and plug, but no oil or crush washer included.
What dealer are you buying this all inclusive kit from?

Edit: found it here:
Yamaha Golf Cart Factory Tune up kit (http://www.cunninghamgolfcar.com/p-1361-yamaha-golf-cart-tune-up-kits-g29a-g22a-g16a-factory-aftermarket-free-shipping-us-locations.aspx)
Good deal!

[jchase]

Every kit I've purchased from the Villages had the drain plug crush washer. Your web you posted also has one.

[Allegiance]

Amazon.com : Yamaha G16, G19, G22 Drive Gas Golf Cart Tune Up Kit 1996-Up : Golf Cart Accessories : Sports & Outdoors (https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Drive-Golf-Cart-1996-Up/dp/B006CPVA7E)

Is this a good kit? I have plenty of good synthetic oil already on hand. Guess I would need the washer.

[TechGC]

Saw this post so I thought I would sign up and contribute.

I think its great that you want to do your own maintenance, the problem I see almost daily is lack of proper service. A proper service, will prevent the majority of your issues. The key word here is "proper" service. All golf carts have problem areas, these areas,if addressed in a service, can save you hundreds down the road. Your golf cart does not need an air filter, fuel filter, spark plug every year. Air filter and spark plugs, last years. Fuel filter, depending on how much you use your cart and where you fill up. 10w-30 or 10w-40 is OK. A good tech will be able to determine if these items need to be changed. Oil change every year....Yes, it is the life blood of the engine. No need to change the crush washer with the oil change. I read here some issues, but a good tech will rarely have an issue with it. Stripped drain plug- again a good tech it will never happen too. I see it out there, its because care was not taken, same like a stripped wheel lug nut.
Your car being an 09- you have other areas of concern that need to be addressed. Most times, these areas are not in any book, its learned. Also these areas can very from year to year. I see individuals paying for repairs, that if addressed during a service, would not have had a failure.

[ditka41]

The complete tune-up kits are prepackaged and normally displayed close to the parts counter at the Yamaha dealer's shop. They DO include oil, drain plug crush washer (to ensure a good seal and they do crush and should NOT be re-used), gas and air filters and spark plug (which naturally also comes with a proper washer for the same reason.) I have purchased the kits in Ocala and in The Villages. Good luck in thinking the Yamaha dealers will do anything beyond what was stated on the work order. Perhaps one should take the cart in every several years and ask them for a complete check of those unstated, but unique, potential problems such as Clutch, Belts, Brakes and suspension / steering components. --- My whole reason for doing the tune-up myself started with a dealer who didn't even change the oil as requested. Over 50 years of working on street and track motorcycles has given me a good insight regarding some basics with simpler vehicles like golf carts. I have not ordered any kits from Amazon but three months ago 2 kits cost $74.96, including tax, at Yamaha dealer.

[biker1]

The problem with the tune-up kits is that they don't represent the correct frequency of parts changes and only include a subset of required maintenance parts. For example, changing the oil once per year may be inadequate depending on how many miles per year you travel. I prefer to buy oil separately. The air filter and spark plug are probably good for 10k miles, which will typically be several years. Also, the differential fluid will require periodic changes and the clutch may need a shot of grease. I find the crush washer is good for a couple of oil changes. The Yamaha owner's manual provides guidance on maintenance frequency.

The complete tune-up kits are prepackaged and normally displayed close to the parts counter at the Yamaha dealer's shop. They DO include oil, drain plug crush washer (to ensure a good seal and they do crush and should NOT be re-used), gas and air filters and spark plug (which naturally also comes with a proper washer for the same reason.) I have purchased the kits in Ocala and in The Villages. Good luck in thinking the Yamaha dealers will do anything beyond what was stated on the work order. Perhaps one should take the cart in every several years and ask them for a complete check of those unstated, but unique, potential problems such as Clutch, Belts, Brakes and suspension / steering components. --- My whole reason for doing the tune-up myself started with a dealer who didn't even change the oil as requested. Over 50 years of working on street and track motorcycles has given me a good insight regarding some basics with simpler vehicles like golf carts. I have not ordered any kits from Amazon but three months ago 2 kits cost $74.96, including tax, at Yamaha dealer.

[Shimpy]

A Yamaha representative told me that synthetic is fine. I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30 for several years. The owner's manual only specifies 10w-30 and API Service SE, SF, SG (which are obsolete API ratings). Any contemporary 10w-30 oil is fine.
I use Mobil 1 10w30 and have for the past 7 years. I change it every 4 months.

[Shimpy]

Every kit I've purchased from the Villages had the drain plug crush washer. Your web you posted also has one.
I've been changing mine for 7 years now and stilll using the original crush washer.

[TechGC]

I've been changing mine for 7 years now and stilll using the original crush washer.


I do 1000 oil changes a year and never change them.

[PaulDenise]

I change my oil every year, but for the sake of interest.... My cart does not have an odometer, only an hour meter. It is a 2015 Yamaha gas.

For those of you with both odometers and hour meters, what is the relationship between the two.

On average, is an hour of use equal to 10 miles or so on the odometer??

[biker1]

Check your owner's manual regarding maintenance requirements. I change my oil every 50-75 hours of running time and use Mobil 1 10w30.

I change my oil every year, but for the sake of interest.... My cart does not have an odometer, only an hour meter. It is a 2015 Yamaha gas.

For those of you with both odometers and hour meters, what is the relationship between the two.

On average, is an hour of use equal to 10 miles or so on the odometer??

[HiHoSteveO]

I change my oil every year, but for the sake of interest.... My cart does not have an odometer, only an hour meter. It is a 2015 Yamaha gas.

For those of you with both odometers and hour meters, what is the relationship between the two.

On average, is an hour of use equal to 10 miles or so on the odometer??

Two 2014 Yamaha gas carts purchased same day Jan 2014

Cart 1
ODO = 5359
Hours = 319

Cart 2
ODO = 6177
Hours = 370

[Allegiance]

That's about 17 mpg as an average? Aka "the flash" ;)

[PaulDenise]

Thanks Steve.

I would have guessed something like 12 or 14 miles per hour, but 16 to 17 is interesting.

Amazing how well these carts hold up.

[photo1902]

I do 1000 oil changes a year and never change them.

You change your oil 2.7 times a day? :)

[ditka41]

Better to change your own oil 2.7 times per day, than doing 1000 oil changes being paid as a "service technician" while neglecting to use crush washers 1000 times. Perhaps this is who the dealer subbed my cart out for service and the oil was not changed at all. Makes one doubt the quality of some service facilities and decide to do it yourself.

[TechGC]

Better to change your own oil 2.7 times per day, than doing 1000 oil changes being paid as a "service technician" while neglecting to use crush washers 1000 times. Perhaps this is who the dealer subbed my cart out for service and the oil was not changed at all. Makes one doubt the quality of some service facilities and decide to do it yourself.


Try being in the business, I understand what you are saying. Those of us in the business feel your pain, we see it everyday. Used parts sold as new, work billed for but not done, changing of parts that don't need replaced. The unethical practices are there and are wide spread. There are those of us who do care and take pride in what we do.